2015-2020 SR Performance Height & Damping Adjustable Coilovers Review & Install

2015-2020 SR Performance Height & Damping Adjustable Coilovers Review & Install


Hey, guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com.
Today, we’re taking a closer look at and fully installing the SR Performance Height & Damping
Fully Adjustable Coilover kit, available for the 2015 and newer Mustangs without MagneRide
suspension. You should be checking out this particular
set of coilovers if you’re looking for a budget-friendly coilover in the category allowing you to fully
adjust the height from anywhere from one to three inches, getting rid of that unsightly
wheel gap from the factory, while also giving you the option to fully adjust 32 different
ways the dampening of the front and rear. Now, that’ll allow you to soften or firm up
the suspension depending on your personal preference. Now, when it comes to adding a set of coilovers,
this is definitely a step up from a simple lowering spring, giving you that full adjustability
I just mentioned. It may not be as involved as a complete airlift kit or an air suspension
kit, but this is one of the most popular suspension components and suspension upgrades available
in the aftermarket. This coilover kit here, it’s gonna allow you
to lower your center of gravity, completely improving your handling and suspension, giving
you a better cornering ability, decreasing body roll or excessive body roll, keeping
your wheels planted on the ground a lot more, and keeping your vehicle leveled. It’s also gonna reduce excessive squatting
upon hard launches, reduce excessive nosedive on hard braking, you’re overall, just completely
revamping that suspension and handling. In addition to that, guys, just simply from an
appearance standpoint, it makes your car looks so much more aggressive, lowering that front
and rear, getting rid of that wheel gap. Getting rid of the wheel cap is one of the
nicest things you can do to these S550s. The body just loves it so much, and I think it
looks so much better. I’m sure a lot of you guys agree. That’s why you’re watching this
video. Now, when it comes to coilovers, especially
this one, in particular, you are getting something that is already preassembled right out of
the box. You don’t need a spring compressor. It is a direct bolt-on kit that even includes
new caster camber plates to replace your factory top strut mounts. Now, the caster camber plates will allow you
to fully adjust and dial in your exact suspension geometry, making sure your caster, your camber,
and your tow-in is exactly where you need it to be once you take it to the alignment
shop after you have everything installed. Now, this particular kit includes upgraded
monotube shocks and struts. It also includes a 448-pound front spring rate and a 470-pound
rear spring rate. And it also includes all of the 32-way adjustable dampening measurements
that you can make right at the top under the hood of that strut tower. Now, when you adjust
that, you can turn it to the left to soften your front suspension, turn it to the right
to get it more firm. And again, that all depends on your driving style. If you’re hitting the autocross, drag strip,
or if you’re doing some road racing, you may wanna change that dampening along with the
preload of the springs to adjust for that driving style. If you’re just running a daily driver, you
can leave the preload as is right out of the box because it’s typically dialed into a good
streetcar or daily driver. You can just adjust the softness or the firmness of the front
and rear shocks as you wish to make things a little sportier. That’s something I really like about the SR
kit. It allows for some of the biggest drop in ride height in the category, and it also
gives you some of the most adjustment as far as that dampening is concerned. Now, this kit does come in right around 900
bucks, making it the most budget-friendly coilover kit in the category. And it’s also
gonna get two out of three wrenches on our install difficulty meter here, simply because
it is a direct bolt-on, and it doesn’t require the spring compressor. There’s no cutting,
no welding, no drilling, none of that nonsense. It is that direct bolt-on. Now, there are a couple of things I wanna
mention before we do jump into that full install here, and I am gonna walk you through every
single step of the process. But know that once you get everything installed, that it’s
gonna take some time to dial in exactly where you want the adjustments to be as far as preload
and as far as ride height. Making adjustments to the dampening is super
simple. All you have to do is turn the knob under the hood. But dialing the height and
dialing in that preload is gonna take some more trial and error. You may be putting your suspension together,
throwing your wheels on, putting it on the ground, seeing how it looks, drive with it.
You may be jacking it up, taking the wheels off and making adjustments further. That might
even take a couple of times to doing that to dial in and adjust right. You also wanna make sure when you’re talking
about preload and ride height that your driver and your passenger side are dialed in to the
exact same measurement on the front and exact same in the rear, in which case, I might recommend
picking up a micrometer or something similar to measure the distance in that ride height
on your front strut and your rear shock. And also maybe you might wanna do the same for
the preload. Now, as far as preload, I know I’ve been saying
that a couple of times throughout the video. Preload is essentially the amount of pressure
or the amount of compression on the spring right on the vehicle without the load of the
vehicle being put on it. So how much the spring is actually condensed when it’s bolted up
without being on the ground. That’s gonna determine a lot of the ride quality of your
vehicle. If you have too much preload, and it’s way
too tight, when you start to hit bumps in the road, or if you’re on rough terrain, you’re
gonna feel it. It’s gonna be a lot harder of a suspension. But if you have too little
preload, it might be way too bouncy. So, there’s definitely some things you wanna dial in depending
on your personal preference. As we get into things here, I wanna note that
it may take you upwards of four hours from start to finish to get the entire job complete
and have everything dialed in. Of course, if you have better expertise, and you have
more experience, you might be able to tackle it in less time. Again, I’m going to walk
you through every single step of the process. I’ll show you how to make the adjustments
to the height. I’ll show you how to make adjustments to the preload, and I’ll talk about the adjustments,
the softness, and firmness of the dampening under the hood as we go through the process.
I’ll even compare the stock option to the new coilovers as we do the front and as we
do the rear. So what do you say? I shut up, and we get to it. Tools used in this install include an air
tool, an air gun, 3/8 impact gun, a variety of extensions, 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchets,
10, 13, 15, 17, 18, and 19 millimeter deep 3/8 sockets, 18, 19, 21, and 15/16 deep half-inch
sockets, 6 millimeter Allen key or socket, 17, 19 ¾, and 24 millimeter wrenches. Also recommended but not required would be
an 18 and 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench, finally, a torque wrench and a hammer. Also
recommended but not on the table obviously would be a hydraulic floor jack and some floor
jack stands if you’re working on the ground. And if you have access to a lift, pole jacks
will do the trick too. First up here, guys, of course, is to grab
an impact gun. We’re gonna get our wheel out of the way at the front end. We’ll start uninstalling
our front suspension. When we’re done that, we’ll work on the rear. So what you’re gonna do now is take your 21
socket and remove the factory lug nuts if you have the stock wheel. If not, grab your
key or whatever lug nut key that you need to get your aftermarket wheels off and take
care of it. All right. Next step, what you’re gonna do
here is remove this brake line, this ABS line that’s hooked onto the side of your factory
strut up top here. And there’s one behind the spindle that might be difficult to see,
but if you just follow this down, it’s clipped, again, down below. So what you’re gonna do is basically just
pry this guy off. You can use a panel removal tool, but if you push up from the bottom,
just wiggle it back and forth, it’ll disconnect. And then do it again on the bottom. Next step, what you need is a pole jack if
you’re working on a lift like we are, but if you’re working on the ground, grab your
hydraulic jack. And you’re gonna jack it up right underneath the lower control arm where
it meets the spindle. Just take off a little bit of that pressure. You don’t need to jack
it up too much. Just jack it up so it touches and then a little more to relieve some pressure. After that, what you’re gonna do is remove
the sway bar end link from the strut. That’s back up top here. Now, you’re gonna need an
18-millimeter deep socket. I’m gonna use air tools for this one just because you’ll need
a little bit more torque to get that guy to spin-off. Once we get that off, we’ll be able
to work on the bottom of our strut. So, I’m gonna use our impact gun here, our
air tool. I’ve got an 18-deep socket. Let’s get this guy off. All right. So once we get
that off, I’m actually just gonna take the nut and thread it right back on here so we
don’t lose it. All right. Next up, what we’re gonna do is
remove the two bolts holding the factory strut to the spindle. Now, it’s gonna take a 21-millimeter
deep socket to get the bolt heads off and a 24-millimeter wrench to hold the nuts on
the opposite side. All right. So we got that all the way loose. I’m gonna grab this nut
off. Now we can get the bolts out. Now, because our second bolt is really hard
to get to, it’s blocked by the caliper on the backside. We can’t get a hammer in there
to get the bolt out. What we’re gonna have to do is remove our caliper and bracket. Now,
some models may not need to do this depending on how your system is set up. In our case
here, we are gonna have to remove our caliper bracket combo to gain access to the back of
that bolt. Now, before we do that, I’m actually just
gonna thread a lug nut right on here so the rotor doesn’t start moving and fall off. You’re
just gonna thread one of your lug nuts all the way back, get it nice and tight. That
way your rotor stays in place. I’m gonna grab a 15-millimeter socket, and I’m gonna remove
the two bolts holding on the caliper bracket and just pull this guy off in one piece. We’ll
hammer out that bolt, finish up our assembly, and put this guy back on. All right. So what I’m gonna do is switch
over to a cordless impact and remove both of these bolts here, two 15 millimeters, and
then one on the top. All right. So we got this bolt out here. What you’ll do next is
just take the caliper. I’m gonna set it up here. We’re gonna lower our car down a little
bit, and then we’re gonna properly support this so it doesn’t put any tension on the
brake lines. From there, we just gained access to this bolt. So we’ll be able to get that
guy out. All right. So now that we have access to this
bolt here, I’m gonna grab my hammer, support the top of this rotor so it doesn’t pop down.
I’m just gonna get this guy out of the way. So as you can see, our strut comes free. Now
we can lower this down and tackle the three bolts at the top under the hood. We’ve got
our car back down a little bit, hood popped exposing the strut tower. We have three nuts
holding on the factory strut, and that’s all that’s left. Once we get these three out of the way, we’re
gonna have our hand down there to catch it. We’re gonna pull it out in one piece. So grab
a 15-millimeter deep socket and remove the three bolts. All right. So when you get down
to the third one, just make sure you have a hand down here on the strut. See that guy
start to lower down. Pull it off in one piece. All right. Now we can set this aside. Now, we have one more step for the uninstall,
and that’s removing completely our sway bar end link. We have new sway bar end links in
the kit. So let’s get this guy out of the way before we get started on assembly or comparing
the two kits. So what we’re gonna do now is take an 18-millimeter
deep socket and a ratchet. This is gonna make life a little easier. Put the ratchet on the
backside of where the nut is. You’re also gonna take a 17-millimeter wrench and hold
this nut collar that’s here to keep it from spinning. If we just go like this, that thing’s
gonna spin all day long, and it’s not gonna come off. So grab a 17, hold that collar down, and let’s
just work these guys back together. And as we do this, it loosens up, and it will come
right out. All right. Before we get to the very end here, I’m gonna take these guys out
of place. You should be able to get the nut off by hand, remove this guy completely and
set it aside. All right. So let’s take a look at our factory
strut assembly along with the factory sway bar end link, comparing it to the SR Performance
Height & Damping Adjustable Coilover kit. Now, this one here, next to it you’ll see
the adjustable new sway bar end link included in the kit, just to give you that proper side-by-side. Now, the factory option here is, you know,
perfectly fine from the factory for what it is. But if you’re looking to get that sportier
feel with complete adjustability up to three inches in ride height adjustment, this coilover
is gonna be the way to go. And just simply laying on the ground, we have it adjusted
to about three inches lower than our factory strut assembly. Now, I’m gonna quickly explain
how that even operates because obviously, the factory one isn’t adjustable. So this
might be new to you guys. Now, the adjustable coilover kit here basically
comes with three adjustable collars found on the shaft of the strut itself. These collars
are gonna give you that complete adjustability. The tool included in the kit hooks straight
onto the bottom collar, which you would use to loosen up. When you loosen this guy up, it allows you
to take the top two collars and basically make the strut body shorter, lowering your
ride height. It’s really as simple as that. So as you loosen this guy up, you essentially
be twisting this collar, making this body shorter, and that’s essentially how that works. Now, as far as the dampening adjustment, that’s
at the top here of your strut body. Right up here at the top here under the hood, there’s
a little knob. And that knob is basically gonna go counterclockwise or clockwise to
soften or firm up that dampening. So, if you really want that sporty, stiffer
ride, you have that on the fly right under the hood. Just turn that adjustment knob in
the direction of your choosing. And it is labeled there, so it’s easy to comprehend.
That’s all happening on your new coilover that you would not otherwise have on your
factory strut as you are very well aware. Now, as you adjust the ride height, your sway
bar end link can only do so much from the factory. As you can see, it is a fixed position
sway bar end link. You’re gonna need that adjustment that you would get from this new
guy. So this guy wouldn’t be able to lower your vehicle. You’d have some wacky suspension
handling, but with this, you have full adjustment over both sides. And the same sort of theory
happens here, essentially, you have a collar that you can loosen up, twist as you need,
and tighten it back down to get the height that you want. You can do that on both sides. So what you basically do is unbolt it, loosen
up the collar, twist it to whatever height you need to adjust for that, tighten down
the collars, and bolt it right back up. It’s pretty simple to use. In order to do that,
you’ll be using your wrench the appropriate size. So it’s really simple. You’ll just use
very simple hand tools to get this done. And the adjustment tool needed to make that happen
on the shaft is included in the kit. Otherwise, you’re looking at the exact same quality materials. You do have a monotube design on your new
strut, nice gloss black finish. The coils are actually finished in white, which is pretty
exclusive to the SR Performance setup. And then finally, at the top, you have new caster
camber plates to make adjustment for the ride height. So when you start slamming your vehicle
or lowering your vehicle, you wanna make sure your camber is in line. Camber plates are included and preassembled
out of the box as opposed to the factory solid or fixed strut top or strut mount. When you’re
done the install, of course, it’s recommended you take it to an alignment shop to make sure
your entire suspension is aligned properly. That’s definitely a must to keep that in mind.
When you’re finished this install, you wanna account for that by the end of it. Now, what we’re gonna do next is basically
take our front suspension, our new suspension, and start installing it starting with our
sway bar end link. We’ll put this on the sway bar, then install our new strut, attach everything,
move on to the rear. Step number one here for the install, we’re gonna start with our
sway bar end link, our new adjustable one in the SR Performance kit. You wanna make
sure you’re using this guy, not the stock one. What we’re gonna first off do is take a look
at one of these bottoms. Now, top and bottom doesn’t matter. They’re both the exact same.
So we’re gonna pick one here. Basically, what we’re gonna do is tighten up this collar because,
as far as adjustability goes, we can do it from one side. We just wanna make sure it’s
not bottomed out, which is not. We got some good threading on the bottom here. So what I’m gonna do is basically just twist
this to tighten that guy up. At the end, we can come back with a wrench and make sure
that’s really secure. We just don’t want that flexing yet. This top guy we can leave loose
because that’ll, you know, adjust for the height once we have our strut in place. So
we don’t have to worry about that. We’re gonna take the bottom portion here,
put that through our sway bar, and tighten down the new nylon lock, not from the back.
All right. So, it only goes on so far by hands. Next what we’re gonna do is take our ratchet
and socket and tighten that guy down. All right. So now I’m gonna take my 3/8 ratchet
and my 19-millimeter deep socket. We’re gonna tighten this up from the back while holding
the front here. Now, if you get to a point where this starts
spinning, there is a very small little collar there. You can throw a wrench on there, maybe
about 17 millimeters. Ours looks like it’s not spinning at the moment. So we’re just
gonna be able to tighten this down straight from the back. All right. So we’re getting
really tight here. I just wanna get that tightened down. All right. Now we can move on to installing
the strut itself. All right. So next up here, we’re gonna start installing
our strut. Now, this strut, our front coilover assembly here, there’s a couple of things
I wanna make note of. Number one, I like to tighten up that bottom collar, so the bottom
doesn’t have room for adjustment. This is about where we’re gonna start our install
and see if we like that height. Later we can come back and adjust the height using that
tool. So, I’m gonna leave that be for now. We’ve just got this bottom guy tightened up
so this doesn’t rotate. The top caster camber plate has pre-installed
strut nuts. Now, these are gonna replace the factory ones that we took off earlier under
the hood. So what you wanna do is make sure you’re removing these and not reusing the
factory ones. We’re gonna use these guys.All right. And finally, this guy only installs really
one way. So you wanna make sure you’re lining up the triangle up here to the holes through
the top of the strut tower. All right. So we got these guys off. I’m just gonna place
them right up here where they’re not gonna fall into the engine bay. Now what we can
do is lift this guy up, set it into place, and tighten it up from the top. All right. Take those nuts that we just took
off, thread this guy in. That will hold it in place. Take the other ones and tighten
them down as well. And then grab your 15 socket and get them snug. And now you can see that
the dampening adjustment knob is up top here. This is where you’ll soften or firm up that
suspension. Counterclockwise is gonna soften it. Clockwise is gonna get it harder or firmer. Next, what we’re gonna do is lift up our hub
assembly to line up the spindle to the strut itself using those factory knurled bolts,
put those guys through. Now, you can use a jack for this. If you’re working on the ground,
it might be easier. We’re up in the air, so it’s a little easier for me to just lift up
on it, rotate, and line her up. All right. Once you get one to catch, just push that
guy all the way through. All right. Same thing for the other one. All right. Now, for the bottom one, we can
just push and pull on our hub assembly and slide that guy through. All right. Now, I’m
gonna grab a hammer and just tap them all the way in. It does have a knurled bolt head
side, so it might take a little bit of effort to get that through. All right. All the way
seated on the top and on the bottom. All right. So now we could take the factory nuts, thread
those guys on, same thing on the bottom. All right. So next what we’re gonna do is break out our
torque wrench and torque down these two nuts to 184 foot-pounds. All right. Now, at this
point, we’re gonna connect the top end of our new sway bar end link from SR Performance.
We’re gonna take off that top nut, to begin with. And what you’ll do is you can just line
this guy up to the mounting point. And you can see it’s pretty short. So what we’re gonna
do is just loosen up this collar and twist this guy to make it a little bit taller just
until we get it matched up, just a little bit more. Drop that collar back down to get
it nice and snug right now. We’ll tighten it back down in a minute. Bring that sway bar end link backwards. We
can push up on that stud to get this guy to line up to put it through. It looks like it
could probably be a little bit taller. What we’ll do is loosen that collar up. It could
be a trial and error process, same thing at the bottom. If you need to, you can loosen
this guy up and tighten the collar. All right. So we’re gonna try again, bring
her back through. There you go. Take that nut that we just removed, put it back on through
the front. Now we can tighten it down. All right. Grab a 19-millimeter socket and tighten
that guy down. Now, what we can do is take 19-millimeter wrenches and tighten down these
two collars. Last couple of steps here. Grab that ABS line
that we disconnected in the beginning. The top guy is gonna go to the opposite side of
where your sway bar end link is. It clips right in there. And then on the body between
the two bolts, there’s another hole for the secondary clip. This one’s a little bit tighter,
but it does fit in. Put a little elbow grease in there. All right. At this point, last step
here, of course, we had to remove our caliper and the caliper bracket. So we’re gonna put
that back in place on our rotor. So we’re gonna slide that bracket back into place and
use those two factory bolts to tighten it back down. So now we got our 15 socket. We can tighten
these guys down. So we got our front coilover on our driver side installed. I wanna take
you guys through that process of actually adjusting the height now that it’s installed
on the vehicle. Now, of course, before we jump into that, you wanna repeat this exact
same process on the passenger side. Once you have that taken care of, let’s talk about
ride height. Now, you’ll have two spanner tools included
in the kit. These are gonna be what you’re gonna be using to adjust your ride height
and your preload if you want to adjust preload on a car. So when you have the vehicle jacked up and
you have your wheel out of place taking a load off of it, what you’re gonna do is take
the smaller of the two wrenches. Take the smaller guy. We’re gonna put the larger one
aside. The small guy is gonna focus on adjusting the smaller collars on the strut body. There
are three in total, two smaller guys and the larger one directly under your spring. Now,
we’re not gonna talk about that larger one just yet. Let’s focus on the two little guys. When it comes to adjusting your height, what
you’ll need to do is break this one loose at the bottom and just bring it up a little
bit to remove some of that load. So let’s do that first. What you’ll basically do is
hook this tool around the little teeth around that collar. We’re gonna break this guy loose.
It might take a couple of turns. Once you have that loose enough, you should be able
to do this by hand. Let’s just bring it up. Now, if we wanna adjust our height, we’ll
focus on the upper small collar. We’ll take the same tool, and if we wanna raise our height,
we’ll rotate this to the right. And as you can see, as I rotate it, it’s spinning the
entire strut body. It’s making the strut body taller. So right is going to raise it, and
if we wanted to lower our height, we would go the opposite way, to the left, so right
raise, left lower, pretty easy to remember. Right? So what we wanna do here is just lower this
a little bit, bring it down giving us one of the maxed out ride heights, about three
inches of lowering there. Once you dial in exactly where you want this guy to be, we’re
gonna tighten up the bottom one to keep it from spinning any more. We don’t want it to
spin on its own when the vibration goes through the shaft. So what we’re gonna do is tighten
up the bottom collar, so it doesn’t move by itself. Grab that same tool. Once you dial
in your height, tighten this guy down. Now, when we’re talking about the larger of
the two tools, we’ll be using these two together to adjust preload. Now, before we get into
this, if you guys are not taking this car to the track, if you’re not using your car
for autocross, drag racing, you probably won’t have to touch preload at all. Manufacturers
are typically really good at adjusting preload right out of the box set for pretty much a
streetcar. So if you’re driving a daily driver, you probably
don’t need to work with preload. It is set for your car to weight. It is set for the
street. Out of the box, you’ll be good to go. But if you’re adjusting it for autocross,
drag racing, so on and so forth, adjusting preload can definitely be beneficial. So if
you are gonna play with preload, what you’ll do is take both of these tools. We’re gonna
crack this guy loose. So you go for the smaller of the bottom and the larger one on top, and
you’ll basically break them loose and lower this guy down. From there, we can take the larger tool and
spin this top collar, which is going to adjust the preload. Now, of course, the preload is
how much tension or compression is on the spring before the load of the vehicle is on
it. It’s preload. So the more preload, the tenser it’ll be. The less preload, the softer
it will be. So, depending on how you’re using your car,
you may be adjusting preload. We’re not going to really jump into it, but I did wanna just
show you guys how that will work on this coilover. Once you take care of the preload if you are,
spin this guy back up. Take both tools and tighten them down together. So you’ll really
be going against each other. All right. Just like that. And when you tighten those two together, and
the bottom one’s tight, this guy is not moving at all when your car is on the road. So what
we’re gonna do now is throw our wheel back on and move on to the rear. We’ve got our vehicle in the air, wheels out
of place. What we’re gonna do is take a pole jack since we’re using a lift and support
a rear subframe. Now, to lower this thing down to get the spring out, we do have to
unbolt the subframe on both sides. We’re gonna lower that down just enough to squeeze our
spring out, and then we can put our new spring back into place. So, pole jack is gonna go right under the
subframe. Put this guy right back here. And, of course, if you’re working on the ground
in the driveway, you just wanna put your hydraulic jack here as well. You don’t wanna use a jack
stand. You wanna use a hydraulic jack to make sure that you can lower it to get the spring
out. All right. So we’re just supporting that guy there. Now we can get our shock out of
place. All right. So grab an 18-millimeter socket. We’re gonna go to the top of our shock
and remove these two from the body. Next up, we’re gonna tackle our sway bar end
link. We’re gonna remove it from the lower control arm, not from the sway bar itself.
So we’re gonna remove it right here. You’re going to need an 18-millimeter wrench. I’m
gonna use a ratcheting wrench to make life easier, and I’m gonna also use an Allen key. Now, the Allen key is gonna hold this thing
and keep it from spinning. If you try to use an impact gun, an air tool, probably not gonna
be enough torque. It’s just gonna spin the bearing. So you’ll need this Allen key and
the ratchet or the wrench to get this guy off. So hold that here and work that guy out.
Right now what I like to do is disconnect it, bring that guy out. I like to just thread
the nut back on just so we don’t lose it. All right. Next what we’re gonna do is disconnect
this line here, the brake line. It’s connected to the sway bar and this bracket here using
a 10-millimeter bolt. Let’s get that guy off. Now, the reason we’re taking this guy off
is so that when we lower this to remove our spring, it’s not gonna pull and put tension
on the brake line. All right. Next step here, we’re gonna remove
the two bottom shock bolts underneath of our lower control arm. Grab a 15-millimeter socket.
We’ll get these guys out. And from there, you can pull your shock out of place and set
it aside. All right. Next step, guys, we have to start unbolting or loosening up the bolts
on our subframe. Now, when you do this, make sure you have the rear subframe. Support it
by either a floor jack or a pole jack if you’re on a lift. Now, on the left side of our driver side suspension
on our subframe here, there are two 13-millimeter bolts and then a larger subframe bolt to the
right of it. We’re gonna loosen but not completely remove these two 13-millimeter bolts. All
right. Next is this guy directly next to it. So, this is actually gonna get completely
removed. We’re gonna need a 21-millimeter socket for this guy. So that just removes
this plate here, and, again, we don’t need to completely remove this side. So it’ll still
hang down there. Take this bolt completely out. All right. So now on the opposite side toward
the rear of our vehicle, we have one more of those 21-millimeter blue bolts here. We’re
gonna take this completely off, and again, this is the last bolt. So make sure your subframe
is properly supported before getting this guy off. We still have our pole jack in place,
21-millimeter socket. We are gonna use an extension to go right past this exhaust and
get this guy off. At this point, we’re gonna start lowering
our pole jack to remove our spring. Now, you wanna exercise extreme caution because this
is under a lot of load. So do it very slowly, very cautiously, and once it relieves that
pressure, you can get your spring out. All right. So you can see our spring start
to decompress. I got a lot of play in this now. So what we can do, down a little bit
more, drop this guy down, start to work our spring off. Now, we may need to pull downward
on it in order to get it out from around that spring perch. All right. So maybe a little
bit lower. All right. From there, let’s get our spring out. All right. Once our spring’s out of the way,
your isolator may still be sitting in the lower control arm. You can just reach in there,
pull that isolator out. So we got our rear spring and shock off of the driver’s side
of our 2018 Eco. And it’s on the ground here next to our SR Performance. We do have a couple
of things we wanna transfer over from our factory equipment to our new SR kit here.
And I just wanted to make a quick mention of the adjustability on the rear end here. Looking at the spring, the spring here has
this perch. This perch is going to replace your factory upper isolator that you see here.
So, instead of popping this guy off and transferring it over, we’re gonna use this instead. This
will mount right into that perch, and it has a rubber gasket or isolator that insert into
here, so you don’t have any metal on metal contact. It also has two adjustable rings similar to
the front. Now, this white spacer here is gonna go between the spring and this perch,
again, to prevent metal on metal. It’s got a larger collar and then a smaller collar.
These are gonna be used to adjust your preload. Again, just like the front, we won’t go back
over that, but again, you wanna use this and adjust this if you wanna make changes to that
preload. And what we’re gonna do is just leave it as
is right out of the box and install that spring just like this. So the spring in the rear
will sit like that. Now, it doesn’t come with a bottom or lower isolator. So we will transfer
over this old one to our new spring. If your isolator on the bottom is looking
a little worse for wear, it’s a good time to pick up a new one. You don’t wanna be reusing
any crappy isolators, because once they do completely go out, it’s gonna cause a little
bit of a rough ride. You’ll definitely hear some clunking or squeaking noises at the rear
end. So, you don’t wanna have to take it apart anyway in the future just to fix a crappy
isolator. So pick a new one up now if it’s looking pretty bad. Ours is looking really good, and given that
these are S550s, I imagine that, you know, they haven’t been on the road for too many
years. So, they should be looking pretty good, but definitely worth mentioning. Going over
to the shock, there is one thing we do have to transfer over from our factory shock to
our new adjustable shock, and that’s gonna be this top mounting bracket. Now, this guy
is gonna pop off by a little screw at the top here. The cap comes out, screw comes off,
transfer it over. And we do have a new nylon lock nut that’ll help us secure it. That shock
here is gonna help adjust your ride height. Now, just like the front, you would loosen
up this singular collar on the bottom, loosen that guy up. You can rotate the entire shaft.
You can make it shorter. You can make it longer. It is suggested to make it about the height
that you need to install it at, which does extend a little bit more. So you wanna make
it a little taller, install it, and then make adjustments later on once it’s installed.
So that’s what we’re gonna do. We’ve got it at about the height that we want here. I’m
just gonna tighten that collar up at the bottom just by hand. All right. The first thing we’re gonna do
is transfer over that bracket from the top of our shock to our new SR Performance. All
right. So what we’re gonna do now is pop off this black cap. We’re gonna grab a 15-millimeter
deep socket, and we’re gonna remove that nut on the top here. All right. Break that guy
loose. Now, we don’t need to use this nut again.
So I’m gonna set that down. Our new shock comes with one. So we’re gonna set this aside.
We also don’t need the dust cover because our new one already has that installed, bring
up our new shock. I’m gonna pop off this nylon lock nut, put the bracket back on over, and
install this guy. Now, this is an 18-millimeter nut. So we’re
gonna have to swap that socket. Now we can tighten this down. The last step once you
have that guy installed, grab that factory black cap that snaps right back on. That just
helps protect any dust from getting in there. So, I’ve got that solid. What we’re gonna
do next is install our spring. Kicking things off in the rear, grab that
upper spring perch. Make sure that this black gasket is inserted into that cup there. We’re
gonna install this onto that perch. Now, you should have a set screw either installed here
or included in the kit. You’re gonna put that screw through. Once it’s in place, grab your
Allen key and tighten that guy down. From here, you’ll grab your Allen key in the kit,
grab your set screw, and you’re just gonna tighten it down just using this to hold it
in place. Next step, grab that lower isolator. Again, we’re gonna put this guy in place. Now, what you’re gonna do is basically just
rotate this in that seat until it hits the stopper. It does go in a certain way. This
raised lip here on this side is gonna go toward the inside of the vehicle, and you’ll feel
it because you won’t be able to rotate it. From there, you’re gonna take your spring,
and make sure that this plastic isolator is sitting on the top where the flat side is.
That’s gonna be going upward. So, this plastic piece will sit up against the inside of that
collar. So let’s put that in place. You’re also gonna rotate the spring until
it seats into that locking portion on the isolator. So there’s a little wall on the
isolator that’s gonna rotate into and seat. All right. Next step, what we’re gonna do
is just jack this up slightly until this meets this perch. We just wanna make sure that this
can align properly so when we fully jack it up when our shock is installed, we’ll be able
to make sure it’s lined up. All right. So, as I jack this guy up, I’m
gonna make sure I’m guiding that spring into position. All right. So we can see that that’s
lined up. We don’t wanna go all the way up just yet. We wanna make sure we’re leaving
enough room to install our shock. So now what we’re gonna do is line up the bottom of our
shock to the bottom of the lower control arm where those bolt holes are. Now, one thing
you’ll notice is this perch here on the bottom of our new shock does not have a welded-on
nut. There are nuts included in the kit. So you’ll have to tighten them down separately. What we’re gonna do is put a bolt through,
make sure it goes through the shock. We’re gonna grab one of the nuts in the kit. We’re
gonna try to squeeze our hand in there to get it to tighten down. All right. So you
really just reach over and put that nut into place. And then from here, we can tighten
it down just a little to hold it in. Let’s do the other one, and then we’ll tighten them
down. Next, we have to get these guys to line up
to the holes on the chassis. Now, in order to do that, we’re gonna have to jack up that
subframe, get them to line up. While pushing this up, we’re gonna grab the factory bolts
and put them through. All right. Next up, grab a 19-socket and tighten
these top two guys down. All right. Now, tightening these guys is gonna be a little bit trickier
than it was uninstalling them because we have that separate nut on the top that we now have
to hold. So we’ve got our ratchet and our 17-millimeter socket or deep socket. And we’re
gonna go in there, and I’m gonna tighten the bottom one or the farther one first. I’m gonna
seat my ratchet on that and hold it from up here just to make sure. I know it’s tough
to see, just wanna get something in there to hold that nut, and then from the bottom,
tighten this bolt down with a 15-millimeter socket. All right. Same thing for the other
one. Now, this one over here is a little bit easier to get to. Next, what we have to do is jack up the whole
subframe and reconnect it to the frame. Now, this can be a little bit tricky. You wanna
make sure you have your pole jack in place, which you should have had this entire process.
We’re gonna jack that guy up slowly, because as you remember, we’re putting all that pressure
back on the spring. So you wanna do it cautiously. Once you have it jacked up enough, you’re
gonna take this big blue bolt, and you’re gonna put it right through and tighten it
down to that threaded hole in the frame. Now, you don’t need to tighten it all the way yet.
Put it through, catch a couple of threads to hold it in place, then do it on the other
side as well. Put this guy up a bit. I think we’re in a pretty good place. So this
would catch. I’m gonna put this guy up through, and I’m gonna start screwing this guy back
in. All right. So that’s this side. We just wanna make sure the other side is lined up
as well. That’s why you don’t wanna tighten this all the way down. So it’s holding. Let’s
do this on the other. All right. So, this looks actually pretty
good. If this has shifted off a little bit, you’ll have to redo the other side, move it
yourself. So, you really wanna take caution when using the subframe. Now what you wanna
do is make sure you’re lifting this plate up because you don’t wanna forget this plate.
And you’re gonna put the bolt straight through and screw it into place. Now, what you wanna do is not tighten these
bolts up yet. Jack it up so far that this is making complete contact with the frame.
You don’t wanna force the contact by tightening this bolt down. Jack it up all the way first.
All right. So we’re making complete contact all the way around. Double-check before you
tighten this down that your spring is seated properly, and now we can tighten it up. All right. Grab your 21-socket and tighten
this guy down. Same thing on the other side. Last step here is going to be these two 13-millimeter
bolts all the way on the front side. Tighten those guys up. Next step is to reinstall our
sway bar end link. Now, in some cases, you may be able…depending on the height of your
shock, you may be able to just put this guy right back into position and tighten it down. If you’re lowering it to the max, it’s gonna
be pretty tight here. You may be able to just use brute force and push up on the sway bar
to get it in. I can get it really close, but I just need just a little bit of extra help.
If that’s what you need as well, what we’re gonna do is take our pole jack off. If you’re
working on the ground, you can take off your floor jack because we just don’t need that
anymore. Our suspension’s buttoned up. So I’m taking the pole jack off, and what
I’m gonna do is actually use this guy to help me push up that sway bar. So the sway bar
will actually help us get the end link into position. So I’m just gonna put this guy right
here. We’re not gonna put a ton of pressure, just a little bit to help us get it up there. All right. From here, what we’re gonna do
is just remove this nut, slide the end link back into position now that we have the sway
bar jacked up enough. And it is flexible, so you can angle it where you need to. So
we just need a little bit more help to push this guy up, right back in. Now, before you
remove that jack, I’m gonna put this nut back on. Now, what we have to do is grab our ratcheting
wrench and our Allen key, and we’re gonna tighten that guy up before we remove this.
All right. So if you remember correctly, we have our ratcheting wrench here. Allen key
holds it in place so it doesn’t keep spinning. We’re gonna tighten it down. All right. Now,
if you loosened up the top one, tighten that down as well. I’m just gonna double-check.
Ours is probably just a little loose. We cracked it loose earlier. So I’m just gonna tighten
this guy up as well. All right. Last step here, we wanna make sure
we’re putting back our brake line onto this bracket. If this bracket is not rotated upward,
you wanna make sure you’re loosening this guy, rotating it, tightening it back down
just to make sure it’s in position, because as you can see, it’s cut a certain way to
go around that bolt. So that’s what we’re doing here. We’re gonna take this bolt off,
and now we can tighten that guy down, put it back in, and secure it into place. Grab
your 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down. At this point, guys, dial in your suspension
preload and height on your rear end with the spring perch that’s adjustable with the two
collars and your shock collar as well. Once you dial that down, make sure those locking
collars are completely tight using those spanner wrenches. Repeat everything you just saw on
the other side, and you’re good to go. Well, guys, that’s gonna wrap up my review
and full install walkthrough for the SR Performance Height & Damping Fully Adjustable Coilover
Kit available for the 15 and newer Mustangs without MagneRide. If you wanna check this
kit out, you can do so for yourself right here exclusively at americanmuscle.com.

7 Replies to “2015-2020 SR Performance Height & Damping Adjustable Coilovers Review & Install”

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